Amino acid peptides comprise the newest entry into the skin rejuvenation scene. Expanding one's list of options doesn't happen very often, which makes this exciting news.

Exactly what are amino acid peptides? They're literally a chain of amino acids, the biochemical building blocks of the body. There are twenty alpha-amino acids that together make up mammalian proteins. Peptides consist of a small number of amino acids linked by a "peptide" bond. They may be further bonded to an agent, like palmitic acid (aka PAL-) to further enhance their cosmetic suitability and efficacy.

An odd thing happens when you go from being a twenty-something to a forty-something. Over the course of those 20 plus years, the collagen- and elastin-producing cells known as fibroblasts become less abundant and frankly rather "lazy." Like everything else in the body, they simply don't work as well as they used to. They simply don't pump out the skin firming fibers they once did. This leads to a frightening statistic: an astounding one percent of your skin's collagen is lost each year after the age of 40!

That leads to fewer and fewer collagen fibers and more and more fine wrinkle lines. We all know the signs: fine wrinkle lines, drooping eyelids, and sagging jowls.

If you're a twenty-something, odds are that wrinkles aren't at the top of your list of skin concerns, certainly not compared to that of a forty-something. But if you're 25, you ideally should be working on keeping skin looking healthy and feeling firm. It's always easier to maintain the status quo rather than reversing the damage that's been done.

This is where amino acid peptides come in, jump-starting lazy fibroblasts and encouraging new ones to return to the aging dermis. Of course, aging doesn't happen in a vacuum, and neither does skin rejuvenation. To be frank, monotherapy treatment (single active ingredient) of almost any skin condition doesn't tend to get one far. Be it acne or the simple wrinkle, incorporating ingredients which work synergistically and take aim at multiple contributing concerns can provide a better end result.

Here's what happens in the outer two layers of the skin; then we can discuss how amino acid peptides can be beneficial.

The Epidermis

Dryness, dullness, blotchiness and fine lines are the definitive aging concerns occurring in this outermost layer.

By age 30, the skin is becoming drier, as less sebum is produced. This escalates at menopause. Dryness due to loss of the vital protective ceramide barrier may also be the source of increased skin sensitivity during this time.

The pigment-producing cells called melanocytes live in the basement layer of the epidermis. It is here that our skin color is produced. Over the years, the cumulative effects of the sun cause melanocytes to become more active. The resulting overproduction of melanin leads to blotchy discoloration and those large freckles (lentigos/lentigines) that frequently appear as we age.

Closer to the surface, the corneocytes (superficial epidermal cells) accumulate and the epidermis thickens. The final result: a dull, sallow, lifeless complex.

The Dermis

Below the epidermis, the dermis is a busy place. There are tiny veins called capillaries, which bring blood flow to the skin. There are sweat glands, hair bulbs and nerve endings. And, of course, there are collagen and elastin fibers, which give strength and support to skin. Like the epidermis, the dermis undergoes major changes related to the aging process.

Collagen and elastin fibers begin to break down, leading to sagging, or "crepiness" of the skin. (Envision a chain link fencewith the links coming apart.) Compounding this, collagen- and elastin-producing cells called fibroblasts become far less active. Your skin can't make the amount of collagen fibers necessary to maintain your skin's status quo, let alone repair damage.

Sunlight also takes its toll on the dermis, damaging cellular DNA. This can lead to an increased formation of blood vessels, like spider veins on the face. To skin becoming more fragile and easily bruised. To thinning of the GAGs (glycosaminoglycans), a cellular component that helps give the skin overall structure. And to thinning of the extracellular cement, which holds cells together.

Some age-related lentigos are caused by melanin deposited into the dermis, similar to what is seen with some birthmarks. That is why the bleaching process can be so difficult (or even impossible) for some women.

The Science of Beauty

So just how do you alter changes affecting the dermis and epidermis? What can be done to give those fibroblasts a jump-start? A good analogy is wound healing. If you were to cut your finger, collagen and elastin fibers located deep within the dermis are broken. The end portion of these injured collagen and elastin fibers are composed of a very specific sequence of amino acids (an amino acid peptide). It's these end chain peptides which are responsible for sending a chemical message out to fibroblasts (collagen producing cells), enticing them to return to the area, make collagen and repair the wound. This chemical message is known as chemotaxis.

The amino acid peptides contained in DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Eye Balm and DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Facial Cream mimic the very end fragments that send out the distress signal to fibroblasts, chemically signaling skin to become firmer by stimulating collagen I, collagen IV, fibronectin, and glycosaminoglycans.

Amino acid peptides used in skin rejuvenation are composed of the same end fragment that sends out the distress signal to those fibroblasts, this time chemically signaling skin to become firmer. DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Eye Balm and DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Facial Cream contain the Peptide-D58 Complex, a blend of the newest most active generation of these amino acid peptides created to maintain (or reclaim) firm skin, united with potent antioxidants such as white tea, pomegranate and grape seed extracts plus components essential to restore the ceramide barrier lost as our skin ages. Together they work synergistically, creating a more effective end result.

They work together to stimulate dermal fibroblasts to rebuild (or in the case of that twenty-something, maintain) collagen and elastin fibers all while synthesizing collagen I and IV, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans. the dermal milieu in which the fibers "float".

Antioxidants work as scavengers, eliminating free radicals attempting to damage delicate cellular DNA.

Ceramide-2 and the essential fatty acid linoleic acid restore the ceramide barrier. This may not be a big deal when you're young, but come perimenopause, it's absolutely crucial to keeping skin irritant-free, hydrated and healthy. Thus the epidermal dullness and dryness are addressed while handling the midlife crisis going on deep within the dermis.

Statistics

Rejuvenation doesn't happen over night. After all, if you're staring at wrinkle lines in the mirror, they didn't just suddenly spring up. So when you get set to begin a rejuvenation routine, plan on seeing noticeable improvement in about 8-12 weeks.

Here's what consumers found:

The volume of the main wrinkle decreased by an average of 13.7% (maximum response36% reduction of wrinkle volume).

Depth of the overall main wrinkle decreased on average by 10.7% (maximum response a 27% reduction of wrinkle depth).

Wrinkle surface shrank by 40.3% (maximum reduction - 98%)

Undereye bags shrank on average 65%.

All in all, amino acid peptides offer a non-irritating, non-drying, skin firming option for all skin types. And when formulated with other "friendly" anti-aging agents, can solve most of your skin rejuvenation needs.

Audrey Kunin, M.D.

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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