Many of skin's problems may be dealt with by using specific products or medicines designed to rectify any damage that has been done. Sometimes this simply isn't enough, or you don't want to wait it out for results, and concealer must be used. Although many women use only concealer for their camouflage needs, it is actually better to have at least a few on hand for different situations.

Darkness About The Eyes

Darkness around the eyes can stem from a variety of causes, ranging from chronic allergies to aging changes that cause the eye socket to have a sunken look and create a haunted, gaunt appearance. You will want to use a moisturizing concealer as the skin around the eyes tends to require more hydration in this delicate area. One reason is that added moisture will puff up any little fine lines and diminish bagginess which can make darkness that more noticeable. Use a neutral color one shade lighter than your natural skin tone. Make certain that the formulation is not too pink. This could increase the dark appearance. If the discoloration appears purple, a yellow-based concealer will help compensate and even out the skin tone. Choose a color that is one shade lighter than your natural skin color.

If the eye area is very dark and almost bluish, you may want to consider applying a yellow-toned corrector before your concealer. Try T. LeClerc Correcting Fluid Pen. Do so sparingly, and pat in well. Follow with your regular undereye concealer. For yellow-toned concealer and dark circle treatment in one product, look to T. LeClerc Correcting Fluid Pen, applied in the same manner.

Apply dots of concealer only where you see darkness-usually the curve under the eye and the sides of the nasal bridge. If you apply a wide swath of concealer under the entire under eye region, you will end up looking like a raccoon. If your eyelids are not evenly colored or are red, apply a small amount of concealer and pat evenly over lid with the pad of your ring finger. You can also smooth and blend the product with a small, synthetic-bristle brush. The use of a concealer here gives an added bonus by keeping your eye shadow looking freshly applied all day long.

Do not use your under eye concealer on your face or on blemishes. As the color was chosen to be lighter than your natural skin color, it will draw attention to imperfections. Also, the moisturizing properties of the makeup will impede the healing of the blemish and may make them worse.

Blemishes

For pimples and blemishes, you will want to use a concealer specifically designated for this problem. It should be oil-free and usually contains drying agents to help reduce oiliness and skin inflammation. Select a product the same color of your skin. Anything too dark or light will make the spot more obvious. T. LeClerc Professional Concealer contains Mica and Silica to absorb surface oils and it comes in four different shades to match the majority of skin tones.

If the area is red from inflammation, apply a green-tinted concealer before your blemish concealer to cut out the red. Try Napoleon Perdis Pro-Palette Correct & Conceal.

I like to use a small concealing brush. Your fingers are too large for accurate application and may carry bacteria as well as cause irritation. Use a small amount of concealer and small strokes to gently blend the product without causing more irritation. As long as you have not been picking at the blemish, a small amount should work well. Follow with make-up unless you prefer to apply foundation labeled oil-free or non-comedogenic, first. Liquid foundation is generally lighter for blemish prone skin than cream-based products. Cover with a light dusting of loose powder like T. LeClerc Loose Facial Powder.

Remember that the idea is to make the area less noticeable, so don't overuse your concealer or you will have a large glob of unnatural make-up on your face that catches everyone's eye instead of your blemish!

Be sure not to use this concealer under or around the eyes due to the drying nature of this product. It will likely not be the proper tone and may aggravate the appearance of fine lines and/or puffiness.

Basic Imperfections

For flat scars, hemangiomas (large blood vessel birth marks) or other skin imperfections other than blemishes, do consider your skin type first. If you have a normal to dry skin, any concealer except those specific for blemishes will do. These products are drying by nature, so you don't want to dry out your skin further.

If your skin is oily, go ahead and use your blemish concealer as long as it is not too drying. Consider applying DERMAdoctor Tease Zone Oil Control Gel prior to your concealer for added oil reduction.

Dr. Kunin has tried a wide variety of concealers and camouflaging make-ups and has been very impressed with the Lydia O'Leary Covermark brand. They tend to be the most natural once applied and have a huge assortment of base foundations that can be mixed to really match your own skin tone.

Depending upon the degree of dark discoloration to be concealed, apply one layer and let set, then evaluate the appearance. You may need to follow up with another application. Next apply your makeup unless you prefer to apply foundation first, then a light dusting of loose powder.

Keep in mind when relying upon a concealer, you only "fix" the areas you want to "disappear". Applying product to areas that do not need it, especially a product that is lighter than your natural skin color, will draw more attention to the problem.

Color Correction

Some flaws need a little extra help. As discussed earlier, very dark or blue circles may benefit from a yellow corrector applied before your regular concealer (T. LeClerc Correcting Fluid Pen). This also works well on blue veins or bruises.

Redness is another large issue. Redness may be due to Rosacea, acne, broken capillaries, environmental factors (sun or wind burn), etc. Green-tinted concealers (Napoleon Perdis Pro-Palette Correct & Conceal) do wonders to cut down on the red. Also dab a little around the nose. As we age, more capillaries break in this area. You can also help to reduce the red by focusing on treating the cause of the redness in the first place with daily use of DERMAdoctor Calm Cool & Corrected Anti-Redness Tranquility Cream.

If your skin is a bit sallow and you need a pick me up, I would recommend something on the pink side. This does not mean use a pink foundation, that is too obvious. Instead, use a pink highlighting concealer such as T. LeClerc Matte Fluid Foundation on cheekbones, the center of the forehead, down the center of the nose and chin. Finish by using your regular foundation or and/or powder.

For more information on color-correction, please read my article "Your Concealer Palette."

Thank you for taking the time to read my newsletter. I hope you have found it informative.

Michelle Occhipinto
DERMAdoctor Staff Writer

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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