Now that everyone knows how to pluck and take care of their brows, it is time to move on to making the most of your brow shape. Brow shape can open up or close the face. It can give the face more expression. And, if done poorly or overdone, can make the face look severe instead of inviting. I will try and guide you to the best brow shape for you with regards to face shape.

You want to give your face balance. Take into consideration the shape of your face. If your face is long, you will want the illusion of fullness. For a round face, length is desired. Unbelievably, a well-shaped pair of eyebrows can add much-needed facial balance.

LONG OR RECTANGULAR: When vertical length is more than one and a half times the width of the face, it is difficult to attain facial feature balance. I have a long face, with a full forehead and close-set eyes. The best brow for me will start slightly further apart than the inside corner of each eye, and extend slightly further than the outside corner. This helps to give the appearance that my eyes are more evenly spaced. I also do not accentuate my arches, making certain to have a flatter appearance to the brow. Adding height to the brow with an exaggerated arch would elongate the appearance of my face. I try not to make my brows too thin. This will again help add fullness to my face and soften my features.

• Start center of brow slightly further than the inside corner of the eye.
• Extend brow edge to slightly past the outside corner of the eye.
• Keep arch to a minimum.
• Do not make brows too thin

ROUND: Round faces are as long as they are wide, and often lack structural definition. Keep the length of the brow ever so slightly shortened. Start the brow above the inside corner of the eye, or slightly inward if your eyes are wide-set. If you have somewhat of an arch, make the most of it as this can add the illusion of length to the face. I usually do not recommend thinning the brows, but if your face seems small in comparison to your facial features or your body type, your features will appear more delicate if your brows are not on the bushy side.

• Brows should be shorter in length
• Start the brow above the inside corner of the eye.
• Exaggerated arches help add length to the face.
• Try to keep brow width natural but not too bushy or too thin

SQUARE: A square-shaped face needs softening, as even the best features may be upstaged by bone structure. Delicate, slightly thinned, non-angular brows that accentuate the spatial placement of the eyes can create the needed balance to an otherwise strong face.

• Delicate brows are best
• Keep angles to a minimum.
• Brows should be on the thinner side to soften the appearance of the face.

HEART: A heart-shaped face tends to be broad across the upper half of the face while narrowing toward the chin. The eyes command the most attention on this shape face, while lower features may lose their presence. As the appearance of a thinner the forehead will give more balance, follow the same guidelines as for the round face.

• Brows should be shorter in length
• Start the brow above the inside corner of the eye.
• Exaggerated arches help add length to the face.
• Try to keep brow width natural but not too bushy or too thin

PEAR: A pear-shaped face is wider on the lower half, with a narrow temple and forehead. On this face the eyes may lose their intensity, therefore strong brows give balance. A gentle arch on brows that are groomed but not too thin will be very complimentary. Follow the same guidelines as a long face for adding the illusion of width.

• Start center of brow slightly further than the inside corner of the eye.
• Extend brow edge to slightly past the outside corner of the eye.
• Keep arch to a minimum.
• Do not make brows too thin.

DIAMOND: A diamond-shaped face is widest across the center, with a narrow forehead and chin. For this face shape, you will want to concentrate on opening up the eyes. If your eyes are close or even perfectly set, they will be opened up by slightly expanding the space between the start of each brow. If your eyes are wide set, frame each individual eye.

• Close or evenly spaced eyes need the brow to start slightly further than the inner corner of the eye.
• For wide set eyes, frame each eye separately.

I hope this gives you some insight on how to make the most of your features. Keep in mind that maintenance is required and my favorite tool is the Tweezerman Slant Tweezer. For more information, please refer to my complementing article, "Tweezing Your Brows".

Thank you for taking the time to read my newsletter. I hope you have found it informative.

Michelle Occhipinto
DERMAdoctor Staff Writer

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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