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Nail Care and Manicures

Giving yourself a manicure doesn't have to be difficult, although it is up to you to paint within the lines! Here are some tips for better looking nails.

PREPARATION

  • Remove any old polish from the nails with a non-acetone product, which is less harsh to the nails than routine nail polish remover. Try not to use your polish remover more than once a week as constant use can weaken the nails.
  • Apply a cream cuticle remover and let sit for the appropriate amount of time. Push back gently with an orangewood stick to loosen and remove dead skin as well as create a clean nail surface. If you are too aggressive with this step, you may later find little white spots growing out with your new (unpolished) nail. This is a sign of recent trauma to the cuticle area. Wash nails with warm, soapy water and a nail or tooth brush to remove dead skin and dirt from under the nails.
  • Avoid cutting cuticles which can lead to infection as well as ragged, dry skin.
  • File your nails when they are dry and/or still have polish on them. The harder the nail is at the time the less chance for separation of the nail plate. The Diamancel Diamond Nail File #2 is an ideal choice for effective filing, and seals the raw edges of the nail that filing can create. File in one direction only, toward the center. Avoid cutting nails whenever possible. The most flattering shape currently is called the "squoval." To achieve this shape, file the tips of the nails flatter than normal with rounded corners. This shape also helps resists breaking and tearing. It is perfect for anyone with fragile nails that have been unable to grow a reasonable length.
  • Buffing the nails is a great way to make them shine without polish, but skip if you plan on painting. Polish will not adhere well to a smooth surface. Allow the natural texture of the nail hold the polish.
  • One of the main reasons that polish doesn't last long is due to the natural oils present in the nail bed. Make sure that you cleanse the nails thoroughly or wipe clean with alcohol (not if your nails are unusually dry or brittle) before applying polish.

POLISHING

  • Try to resist the urge to shake the bottle of nail polish. Bubbles form and be transferred onto your nails to create an anything-but-polished manicure. Roll between your palms instead. If you find that the polish has thickened, do not add polish remover to thin. Instead, use a nail polish thinner specially designed for that purpose.
  • Apply a thin layer of clear base coat. This may be nothing more than a clear polish to protect the nail from yellowing or a product designated for this purpose. Personally, I love OPI's Natural Nail Base Coat, which really does help my nail polish to stay on longer. Some individuals like to use a ridge filler before moving on to color, but this is only necessary for very uneven nail textures.
  • Be sure to apply thin layers and let each layer dry fully before moving on to the next layer. By doing this the polish will adhere to the nail better and there will be less of a chance for bubbles or ridging to form.
  • Apply two coats of color. Begin in the center of the nail, about 1/8th of an inch from the base of the nail. Push brush back towards the cuticle and then stripe down the center. Do the same on the sides for a uniform covering.
  • After the previous polish has dried, apply a UV protective topcoat. This will prevent your polish from changing color.

MAINTENANCE

  • Apply a layer of the top coat every other day to prevent chipping.
  • Use your hands like your nails are constantly wet. You will be much more careful when opening car doors and picking things up.
  • Apply a cuticle moisturizer like Nailtiques Cuticle & Hand Conditioner or Burt's Bees Lemon Butter Cuticle Cream nightly to keep the cuticles in good shape.
  • If the nails do chip, apply a dot of the color polish to the area and let dry almost completely. Follow with a layer of topcoat to smooth it out.

If you follow these tips once a week, you should have great looking nails, or at least be on your way there. You can also follow some of these tips for great looking toenails, too.

Thank you for taking the time to read my newsletter. I hope you have found it informative.

Michelle Occipinto
DERMAdoctor Staff Writer

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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