It's been reported that seven out of ten women tinker with the color of their hair, and according to Clairol, about 65 percent of women who color their hair do it at home. Whether your motivation is to camouflage gray, fake flirty summer highlights or create a dramatic sweep of bittersweet chocolate locks, once you color your hair, it demands special care to maintain its new hue and luster. We've teased out the basics to get and keep your color looking vibrant longer.

How to pick what kind of color you need:

Level one or three? Semi, demi or permanent? A trip to the drugstore for hair dye can feel like a high school chemistry quiz, but once you get the lingo down, you'll be a coloring whiz. The three major categories to consider are:

Semi-permanent formulas (also referred to as "level one" products) wrap each strand of hair in a coating of color but don't have much staying power. After a handful of shampoos, you'll be back to your original color. It's a good option if you want to experiment with a darker shade, or you want to alter the tone of your hair. However, since these formulas lack ammonia or peroxide, they can't lighten hair. Brands to consider: Clairol Loving Care.

Demi-permanent dyes (a.k.a. level two dyes) contain peroxide, which pull up the hair cuticle and then tuck pigment into the hair shaft. Without the power of ammonia, these formulas can't lighten hair, but they will last longer than their level one cousins. Expect at least a month of color before you need to re-apply. Check drugstores shelves for Clairol Natural Instincts and L'Oreal Casting ColorSpa.

Permanent color (or level three) will let you go lighter or darker with the longest lasting results thanks to ammonia, peroxide and pigment. Experts advise home colorists to not go more than two shades away from your natural color or risk less than fabulous results. If your inner platinum blonde needs to get out, see a pro. A few permanent colors to try: Revitalique Age-Defying Color System from Clairol, Clairol Hydrience, Garnier Nutrisse, L'Oreal Feria and Revlon High Dimension.

How to get the best results:

After you pick the right color, let your hair get a little dirty by skipping washing it for a day or two. This helps protect your scalp and hair during the coloring process. When you're ready to color, slick some petroleum jelly or conditioner on your ears and around your hairline to prevent the color from tinting your skin. Read the package instructions completely before you start, make sure you have a timer or watch on hand, wear gloves and you're set to go.

How to deal with gray hair:

In its pigment-free state armed with a now fortress-like cuticle and often a coarser texture, gray hair is notoriously tough to color. But, not impossible. If you're still primarily hanging onto the color of your youth, grab a semi-permanent color. With this approach, your gray will transform into nice highlights that blend with your natural color. The effect gradually washes out over about six weeks, but it'll be gradual so roots will be less noticeable.

If you've passed the halfway point and have more gray than your original color, consider a permanent dye. Permanent hair color formulas pry open the cuticle with ammonia and peroxide, then deposit plenty of pigment with staying power. Despite it's name, the color will fade a bit over the weeks. Also, as your hair grows in you'll need to douse the roots with color to avoid tell-tale roots. Figure on coloring your hair at least every month to avoid displaying your gray roots. One good thing though is that you'll only need to color the roots and then just pull the dye through to the ends just before your done. Check the package instructions for the exact timing.

How to prevent fading:

Colored hair is compromised hair, so you need to give it extra care with mild shampoos, rich conditioners and a safe harbor from environmental assault to keep the color fresh. The first step is to skip shampooing for at least 24 hours to 48 hours, after you color. This gives the pigment a chance to really adhere instead of swirl down the drain, and the cuticle will have some time to close.

When you do shampoo (and the less you do of this the better) use a mild formula geared for chemically processed hair. Korres Sunflower Extract and Vitamin F Shampoo is gentle and designed to clean without sudsing out the color. Follow with the complementary conditioner, Korres Silk Milk Conditioner for Coloured and Chemically Treated Hair. Consider purchasing a chlorine filter for your showerhead to snag the color-sapping chemical in tap water before it strips tresses.

Avoid detergent shampoos, like Prell, and inexpensive, high alkaline formulas, which will accelerate the rate at which your hair loses its new color. Which is something to remember the next time you mistakenly color your hair too dark.

Those with known sensitivity to hair color may have to deal with their eczema, contact dermatitis or seborrhea flare-ups immediately after getting colored. Try using ultra-gentle products made for skin concerns such as Free & Clear Shampoo, Free & Clear Hair Conditioner and Free & Clear Hair Spray Soft, Easy Hold. These will eliminate additional chemical irritants accumulating upon the scalp.

Avoiding hair coloring is not essential to addressing one's seborrhea, but keep your treatment products on hand for use, especially a topical steroid solution. Anyone who has gone blonde over brunette will definitely want to steer clear of brown tar-based shampoos, notorious for turning blonde to greenish-brown. Try Nizoral A-D Shampoo or DHS Zinc Shampoo instead.

Remember, hair gets roughed up during processing. Regularly apply a rich conditioner to combat the dryness and to help flatten the cuticle, so light can best reflect off of each strand.

If your color has started to fade, try a color spiked cleanser (also known as color depositing shampoos) such as Frederic Fekkai Brilliant Brown Color Enhancing Shampoo for brunettes or Rio Red for auburn or red heads. These formulas will deposit a hint of color onto your hair to freshen it up between colorings.

Staying out of the sun, wearing a hat when out and employing UV blocking products that are made for the hair (check your local beauty supply store) will help blunt the color sapping effects of ultraviolet rays. If you swim in chlorinated water, wear a cap to keep your locks out of harms way.

Karmen B. Saran
DERMAdoctor Staff Writer

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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