The Taming of the Tresses

When it comes to hair, one clich always rings true: the grass is always greener. Those with naturally straight hair would do just about anything for some body and those with curly hair (myself included) would spend any amount of money and try any new product to achieve that that sleek, stick straight look even just for one evening.

Big in Japan

And now there is some good news for us curly folk. A new semi-permanent straightening procedure is getting rave reviews. It's called thermal reconditioning or Japanese hair straightening. It takes four to six hours to complete the process, but the stick-straight effects last for 6, 8 and even 10 months! Now from New York City to Tacoma Wash., women who have battled the frizzies their whole life the very same crew who coined the term 'bad hair day' and were borderline phobic of humidity -- are sporting sleek, straight hair even in inclement weather.

What to expect when you are straightening, Japanese style.

A chemical-hair straightening veteran myself, I was very interested to learn about the latest and greatest in hair straightening. As it stands, I go to a speak-easy-type establishment in Queens, NY about twice a year for about 30 minutes a pop. At said "salon," they only take cash (a bargain at $75) and speak little English thus I have no clue what chemical soup is put on my hair. I do know that it works and in the month or two after a procedure, my hair can remain frizz-free even on a Caribbean cruise.

The new Japanese procedure takes a bit longer and costs a bit more. First, your hair will be shampooed. Then, a conditioner is applied and once the hair has been conditioned, a solution of "thioglycolate" -- thio, for short -- is applied and you sit under a "roller ball" dryer or an ionic blow dryer for 40 minutes, while it processes.

Then, 1/8th-inch sections of hair are flat-ironed to make them straight. The amount of time this part takes depends on the length and thickness of your locks. Afterward a neutralizer is applied and the hair is pulled straight or stretched over boards. Different salons have different approaches to thermal re-conditioning.

But you are not quite done yet. There's one final shampoo, followed by a blow dry and then a quick trim to get rid of all the dead ends. And voila! Shiny, straight hair for six to eight months. After this time, women may need to have their roots touched-up. The process costs between $300 to $600 dollars.

Most proponents say it's money well spent. "I had the process done last July and am only now seeing some curl coming back into my hair. It was a long procedure, but I was so happy with the results," says one New York City attorney. "I would do it again!"

Too steep for you? Don't worry, there is more to do to keep the frizzies at bay. Much more. Read on.

Anatomy of a Curly-Q

So why does our hair frizz anyway? The short answer is that curly hair has so many bends and twists and each strand has tiny gaps in the cuticle into which moisture from humid air can seep and cause swelling [aka frizzing]. Curly hair is also naturally dry, so even though it absorbs water, it looks frayed.

In an unofficial e-mail poll of roughly 45 women in their 20s and 30s for whom straight hair is top priority, women said they spend an average of about $20 to $50 dollars a month on their straight hair regimen with some spending as much as $130 a week for professional blow-outs at salons.

There was a nearly 100% response rate as the frizz-phobic love to talk about the pains they take to weatherproof their hair. However with hundreds if not more shampoos, conditioners and balms on the market, there was little agreement on which ones are best.

Here's what we did find out about the tried-and-true less expensive anti-frizz strategies and frizz control products that can help you love your locks:

• People with frizzy hair should get their hair trimmed every 6 to 8 weeks to stop split ends from splitting up the hair shaft and causing hair to frizz. And it's good counsel to avoid washing and blow-drying your hair every day, as this strips your locks of its natural oils. One long-suffering frizz-phobe from Queens, NY has this advice to add: "Avoid humid conditions; put [hair] up for at least an hour after blow-drying straight to let hair "set" (in a twist on top of head) and sleep with it in same twist [and] NEVER put on a top/sweater that's still even slightly damp because it DESTROYS freshly blown hair."
• Switch to a super moisturizing shampoo. Try Tricomin Conditioning Shampoo. Also, several poll respondents agreed that the Pantene Smooth and Sleek shampoo/conditioner collection is A-1. "It flattens the hair and weighs it down and makes it silky," says one chemical-straightening veteran about the Pantene line.
• Deep-condition your hair once a week. I personally love John Frieda's Miraculous Recovery Deep-Conditioning Treatment, but several other women recommend the Kerastase deep-conditioning line of products. Another option, particularly for weak or thinning hair is Tricomin Restructuring Conditioner.
• Use a balm or serum to keep humidity out and shine in. When looking for frizz-control product ingredients should include dimethicone or other silicone and or natural oils like coconut, olive, shea butter or sesame. For straightening balm/serum, the products that came up over and over again include Rusk Str8 Anti-Frizz/Anti-Curl Lotion, MOP De-Curl Straightening Balm, KMS Flat Out Relaxing Balm, which includes silicone, and my favorite Alberto VO5 Sheer Hairdressing, Lightweight Leave-In Anti-Frizz & Shine Crme.
• For blow dryers, most poll respondents like the Solano "Super Solano" Hair Dryer. A large round brush with maximum tension upon the hair is critical in the blow-dry process. Too much dryer damage? Try an Aquis Microfiber Hair Towel - Pink for initial drying to soak up excessive water from the hair and then apply your straightening balm. This will help reduce the amount of dryer time. For the sleekest of looks, particularly for those of us who are blow-dryer challenged (it takes a knack to properly use a blow dryer, consider using a flat iron in the final process. It's extremely important to apply a straightening product to your hair to prevent damage to the hair cuticle. You want your look to sizzle, not your hair!

Happy straightening!

Denise Mann
DERMAdoctor Staff Writer

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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