To polish or not to polish? This used to be the only question. In the '40s, nail reform was confined to the contents of dainty, leather-bound manicure kits; nails that split or refused to grow could only be subjected to hours of hopeful buffing or nightly pinching rituals to encourage the perfect curve.

Some women resorted to drinking concoctions of Knox gelatin powder, dissolved in orange juice, to try to coerce brittle nails to toughen up. The long and short of it was you were stuck making the best of what you had, which oftentimes was the hiding space of the socially-required white glove.

Nowadays nails can become any shape or size you want; anyone with a checkbook and a little time can take their Tom Thumbs to dragon lady lengths. Gelatin solutions are now applied, not imbibed, and the industry of artificial nails has grown considerably. From 1984 to 1989, the number of licensed nail enhancement technicians in Los Angeles County grew by over 5,000. There are so many methods to choose from that an individual simply has to pick what's best for their schedule, lifestyle and wallet before heading to the salon.

In Beverly Hills there's a salon called Hands Across The Table (named for the 1935 film in which Carol Lombard plays a manicurist) that offers the Juliette technique: the nail extentions they attach to yours are actually human nails, cut from more fortunate hands, sanitized and ready to be glued! The possibilities are endless. As such, I've outlined today's most popular products and procedures to demystify the faux nail phenomenon and make it less daunting to decide what's best for you. After all, you don't want any nervousness to arise in this decision-making process; the last thing you want to do is start biting those nails

OVERVIEW

As a general rule of thumb, any nail topping you choose will require a commitment to professional maintenance, so you'll want to select a salon with a convenient location and a manicurist/technician that makes you feel comfortable. As your natural nail grows out, you'll see a gap between the sculptured nail and your own, and that's why you need to return to the salon every 2-3 weeks for what's called a "fill-in."

As far as health issues are concerned, below is an at-a-glance list of what to look for and look out for when seeking your new salon, as, aside from talented technicians, you need to seek an establishment that adheres to the rules of sanitary practice and procedures. Though it's only a handful of people that encounter allergies or infections through artificial nail application, remember that hair and nails are indeed appendages of the skin. You wouldn't want a doctor to use non-sterile tools to stitch a cut on your cuticle, and you shouldn't allow a nail professional to introduce non-sterile tools beneath the cuticle, either. Here are the quick tips for protecting those fingertips:

• Make sure the salon and each individual technician have licenses posted in plain sight. (The Board of Cosmetology in most states requires photos of the licensed individual to be posted on the certificate.)

• Never let a manicurist touch your cuticles your infection protection without washing his/her hands with soapy water or wiping them off with alcohol swabs. You need to do the same. Fungal spores naturally exist on the outside of your skin, but you don't want to allow them inside/under the cuticle, especially when you're about to have an occlusive substance seal them in. You could risk developing nail fungus, called onychomycosis, which could inflame the fingertips and damage the nail root and bed.

• Likewise, cuticle sticks and nippers MUST be sanitized before each use. This rule is essential: last year ABC News reported that a jury awarded $3.1 million to a Colorado woman who contracted herpes through a nail salon's use of non-sterile instruments.

• Wooden emery boards should be discarded after a single use/client, and metal ones must be soaked in alcohol or Barbicide between customers.

• If your nail treatment requires sanding or buffing tools, the sanding sleeve should be discarded after a single use/client, or the sanding head should be disinfected in an autoclave.

• The sculptured nail should never extend all the way to the sides of the real nail. If applied this way, when your nail grows out, you'll end up with a 'well' space, where water can get trapped and make its way under a loose topper and cause mildew and substantial infection. Your best bet is to ask around, visit salons and get recommendations from friends. Most artificial nail-wearers I know have been to three or four salons before settling on their current choice, and all are happy to offer suggestions and technicians to anyone who asks.

METHODS

Acrylic

Dentist Stuart Nordstrom finessed the current acrylic polymer, after patients likened the strong smell of temporary crowns to that of the difficult-to-use acrylic nail formula. Nordstrom experimented with various recipes for a new liquid-and-powder process and launched Creative Nail Design Systems in 1978. Thanks to Nordstrom, now the acrylic nail is built with a safer, smoother mixture that hardens to a tougher-than-nails substance in less than five minutes.

At the first visit, the acrylic is usually painted over a plastic nail tip, then sanded smooth and buffed shiny. For most, the aid of the acrylic shield allows their natural nails to grow out and match the fake tip, and subsequent appointments simply become a re-painting (and filling in) directly over your now-long natural nail.

PROS:

Acrylics are the most durable of all overlays. A friend of mine gardens in rocky soil with hers, and guitarist Don Ross, (two time North American finger picking champion!) wears acrylics to protect his.

They're great for those trying to kick the nail-biting habit: the "plastic" surface is far too hard to nibble.

The smooth-as-glass surface can hold nail polish with no chipping for up to three weeks.

The acrylic substance, thicker than the others, can easily camouflage misshapen or ridged nails and mask imperfections of the nail bed.

More technicians are well versed on acrylic procedures than they are on wraps or gels. If you're a frequent traveler, or are considering artificials to wear to an occasion away from home, these overlays are the way to go. If one loosens or needs repair, it will be easier to find a last-minute technician to come to your rescue.

Acrylic sets and fill-ins are the least expensive of all artificials: A full set ranges from $35-$55, with fill-ins about $20. Appointments take 1 1 1/2 hours.

CONS:

Any of the overlay methods can appear obviously fake if not applied well, but as the acrylic formula is the thickest "paste," it provides the biggest risk for overly thick applications and an obvious artificial look. Again, simply seek recommendations for a talented manicurist, one who can work the mixture into a thin and natural-looking nail.

In 1974, the FDA issued a warning against an acrylic nail-building ester called methyl methacrylate (MMA), deeming it "a poisonous and deleterious substance that should not be used in fingernail preparations." Since then, most salons have switched to ethyl methacrylate (EMA), but 20/20 recently conducted an investigation of Dallas, Texas salons and discovered many were still using the substantially less expensive MMA. Though MMA is only dangerous for those who develop allergic reactions (there are also lists of potential health risks associated with it, too), you don't want to establish a relationship with a salon that ignores the FDA's warning and purchases black market products to save a little cash. Signs to look out for in differentiating between EMA and MMA:

• Cost of services: If a salon advertises acrylic sets for less than $20, it could be a telltale sign. If they are using EMA, they can't make a worthwhile profit at that price.

• Though the proper acrylic procedure doesn't smell like roses, by any means, MMA has such a strong chemical odor and vapor that many who have been exposed say it makes the eyes water. If your nail procedure smells unpleasant, that's one thing. If you have to turn your head or feel like you should be wearing a mask, take notice.

• MMA dries far faster than EMA. If your nails dry in seconds, it could be a sign. While EMA still allows a speedy process, it should take a few minutes to cure.

Fiber Wraps

The fiber wrap process consists of alternating pieces of silk, linen, or fiberglass with a glue-based polish to create an extended nail or reinforce the natural one. Silk is the thinnest and most natural looking, but provides the least support. Linen is rarely used, as those who choose fiber wraps often do so because the result is translucent --and linen layers tend to look thick and are always opaque. Fiberglass, though it sounds the least natural, appears quite realistic and is durable enough to handle an active lifestyle.

Cost: $55 $70 for a set; $30 for fill-ins.

PROS:

Wrapped nails tend to look extremely realistic; the thin layers add minimal height to the natural nail and the extension appears no thicker than it would be if it were home grown.

Overlays are easy to get used to; the artificial nail is no heavier than the natural nail, so wearers don't go through that awkward phase of adjusting to a completely foreign-feeling addition. (Some acrylics users complain that they are frequently aware of their faux nails, and that it takes awhile to "act casual.")

If you can grow your own, but they break easily, this process easily reinforces your natural nail. (Singer/guitarist Suzanne Vega uses wraps to insure her long nails won't break when she nail plays concerts.) A friend of mine, who has beautiful nails, got them wrapped a few days before her wedding just to insure she could keep them perfect until and during her big day.

CONS:

Wraps can chip or crease like natural nails, but said flaws cannot be remedied without a nail technician.

If the fabric isn't properly sanded, coated, and buffed (or you scratch the surface by accident), the strings of the fabric material become visible.

Not all salons carry the same fabrics, so fixing a damaged nail in a pinch can lead to full removal of the faux nail to start over.

Gels

Gel product (like acrylic, an offspring of a dental chemical) is layered over an artificial tip or form until the desired shape and length is achieved, and is "cured" under UV lights. Gels, like the others, can be extended over tips or applied on the natural nail.

$55 - $75 for a set; $30 for fill-ins

PROS:

Like wraps, the thin layers of overlay result in a natural-looking nail.

Because gels are clear, you can usually see through to the nail bed, creating the most realistic looking topper.

As such, gel wearers can get away with what the others cannot: clear nail polish.

The gel process adheres the overlay to the natural nail stronger than the other processes loose nails, or "lifting," occurs rarely to never.

CONS:

The gel formula and required equipment is expensive for salons to maintain, so not as many have the most up-to-date supplies or the technicians available for remedying errors or scheduling the 2-3 week fill-ins.

Due to translucence, gels are not ideal for flawed or damaged nails that need a more comprehensive coating.

Gels take longer to cure than the others, and give off a bit of heat under the UV lights. While most don't mind the warmth, some find it unnerving or uncomfortable.

So, there you have it. If you loathe your brittle, little nails, I hope I've liberated you and educated you well enough to get out there and adorn your fingernails in such a way that you feel proud to wear polish. My mother tells me that during her teens she was so mortified by her extremely flat, deeply ridged fingernails that she feared she'd pass the trait and the embarrassment along to me. The moment I was born, she checked for 10 fingers and 10 toes, then immediately took a closer look to see if I'd been cursed with the same virtually horizontal nails. Lucky for me, my Dad's genes won that particular lottery. Lucky for my Mom, she found an artificial nail salon that keeps her secret better than I do.

Katie Wright
DERMAdoctor Staff Writer

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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