Confused by cosmetics ads that toss about the phrase "pH balanced", making a chemistry degree seem mandatory for undertaking a skin care routine? In a world where science melds with advertising, medical reality is often blurred. Yet "pH balanced" is anything but hype or creative marketing. Leaping straight out of a chemistry lesson, this measure of product acidity or alkalinity can be critical for maintaining healthy hair and skin.

Chemistry Lesson

So what is pH anyway? Simplistically, it's nothing more than a measuring system for comparing the strength of acids and bases. An abbreviation for "potential of hydrogen", chemists long ago realized molecules which give up more protons the positively charged portion of an atom when placed into water, differed from those that give up a hydroxy group (OH-).

A scale from 1 to 14 was created to gauge these properties. Water, the elixir of life, is neutral; it is neither acidic nor alkaline. It was assigned the midway point on the scale: 7. Anything below 7 is categorized as an acid; those above, a base. ( Note: the terms base, basic and alkaline all refer to the same thing. ) The further the pH shifts from 7 in either direction, the stronger (and potentially irritating) the solution. So a compound with a pH of 3 is more acidic than one at 5; a base at 8 is less potentially irritating than one at 10.

The Acid Mantle

An imperceptible thin viscous fluid, the acid mantle, important for maintaining overall health of skin and hair, protects both skin and hair. Secretions formed by sebaceous and eccrine sweat glands comprise the acid mantle. Sebum (the oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands) and sweat, (the salty, watery mix produced by the eccrine glands) blend and are further acidified by secretions from normal flora of the skin (bacteria known as Staphylococcus epidermis). The normal acid mantle for both skin and hair ranges between 4.0 and 5.5.

Sunlight, diet, excessive sweating and the application of skin or hair products can all lead to disruptions in the acid mantle.

pH And Skin Care

The epidermis is protected by an external layer of dead, dry, tightly knit cells (outer stratum corneum) arranged like shingles on a roof. Any disruption to the acid mantle, elevating overall skin pH, interferes with this protective barrier, wrenching cells away from each other and results in dehydration, roughness, irritation and noticeable flaking. Skin is left defenseless and susceptible to further environmental damage.

As cells pull apart, minute breaks become exposed, leaving skin more vulnerable to bacterial invasion. Under normal circumstances, bacteria not only have a difficult time penetrating through the stratum corneum, but the acid mantle creates a hostile environment for bacteria which prefer an alkaline environment to flourish. A rise in pH plays mayhem with natural infection prevention, further increasing infection due to bacteria typically paralyzed by an acidic environment. Once the pH exceeds 6.5, bacterial invasion increases dramatically, a loss of normal skin integrity results and a variety of various skin diseases and disorders such as atopic dermatitis, seborrhea, ichthyosis and irritant contact dermatitis flare.

Washing the skin with moderately or highly alkaline soap or detergents is one of the most common mistakes made that strips away the acid mantle. Use of a cleansing agent that contains alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and is pH balanced is a great way to keep epidermal cells lying tightly upon each other and skin looking glowing. DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Antioxidant Enhanced Glycolic Acid Facial Cleanser 1, DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Antioxidant Enhanced Glycolic Acid Facial Cleanser 2 and DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Antioxidant Enhanced Glycolic Acid Facial Cleanser 3 are great options. Other choices include MD Formulations Facial Cleanser and Cellex-C BetaPlex Gentle Foaming Cleanser.

Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) is another option for an active cleansing agent. Peter Thomas Roth Beta Hydroxy Acid 2% Acne Wash and DERMAdoctor Ain't Misbehavin' Medicated AHA/BHA Acne Cleanser are excellent options.

Rehydration of the skin with a moisturizing cream can simply and effectively neutralize the alkaline cleanser, particularly if it has an acidic quality. The product needn't be harsh, it need only fall into the acid mantle range or just below. Use of skin rejuvenation products in lieu of a traditional moisturizer such as MD Formulations and Cellex-C are an ideal option. If your skin is already dry, opt for the cream base; if you are oily or regular, you can consider the serum or lotion formulations as well.

If you already have parched dehydrated skin, applying an acidic AHA product is not an option until you have soothed and settled with a "bland" moisturizing agent. TriCeram and Neova R2 Creme Intense both help seal the skin without causing stinging. TriCeram helps reestablish the ceramide barrier while Dr. Brandt Anti-Irritant Soothing Moisturizer helps reduce inflammation (itching and redness) without the use of cortisone and doesn't cause skin to sting.

Should facial skin be flaking and red, it may also be a sign of seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff on the face). DERMAdoctor Born To Be Mild Medicated Face & Body Cleanser is both medicated and pH balanced. Plus it was shown to be just as gentle and mild to the skin in clinical testing as Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser.

After you've dealt with the healing phase, go into preventative mode and apply an "active" moisturizer to help prevent dehydration, remove scale and maintain the acid mantle. Facial recommendations include Cellex-C BetaPlex New Complexion Cream and MD Formulations Continuous Renewal Complex. Suggestions for the body include: DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Moisturizing Therapy For Dry Skin and PRIORI Advanced AHA Hand & Body Revitalizing Lotion. In addition, removing extra scaley, dry skin can be achieved by using DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Body Scrub with Chemical + Physical Medi-Exfoliation 0nce or twice a week.

Those who are oily or acne-prone may mistakenly substitute an oil reduction regimen with overly aggressive techniques or extremely alkaline products that strip the skin of all protective surface skin oils meant to help waterproof the skin. This leaves skin red, irritated and inflamed and vulnerable to further environmental challenges.

Teens and young adults may find themselves in this predicament through over enthusiastic use of multiple acid based acne medications that further irritate exposed skin. Avoidance of therapy is not the answer, but rather understanding appropriate use of medications and oil control helps solve the problem. DERMAdoctor Tease Zone Oil Control Gel can safely absorb excess surface oils without stripping away the protective acid mantle whether one has generally oily skin or suffers from combination skin yet leaves no residual odor, residue or sticky texture.

Use of glycolic acid cleansers such as DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Antioxidant Enhanced Glycolic Acid Facial Cleanser 1 or MD Formulations Facial Cleanser (if not as oily) begun just once daily (one can always increase in frequency) or beta hydroxy acid (or a combination thereof) including Peter Thomas Roth Beta Hydroxy Acid 2% Acne Wash or DERMAdoctor Ain't Misbehavin' Medicated AHA/BHA Acne Cleanser help unplug pores and remove dead skin cells and built up oils prior to applying DERMAdoctor Tease Zone Oil Control Gel.

pH and Hair Care

The cuticle is the outer coating of the hair shaft and is composed of many tiny keratinized cells closely overlapping. Damage by an alkaline hair care product can pull these cells apart, much like that seen with the epidermis. Separation of cells creates dry, rough, even frizzy hair, eliminates shine and creates an appearance of dullness.

Even more disconcerting, as the keratin of the cuticle is damaged, it becomes less dense. Porous hair is weakened hair and can lead to breakage. Hair color, permanent solutions and heat treatments also affect the acid mantle and contribute to fragile, brittle hair.

Those with scalp conditions such as dandruff may take some comfort to realize that tar and zinc pyrithione based shampoos tend to fall on the acidic side of the scale. However, the active ingredients can still take a toll on the hair. Always try to use a pH balanced conditioner after using one of these products, if you chemically treat your hair, use a hair dryer, flat iron, hot rollers, etc.

Achieving pHabulous Looking Skin

How can you restore skin to normal pH? It's simple chemistry; neutralization of an alkaline base with an acid. First of all, don't get anxious about your products. Today, most manufacturers understand what pH balanced is all about and for that reason do not bother to place the pH of the product onto packaging or even marketing materials. Notorious troublesome categories include face and body detergents (highly fragranced soaps, bubble bath, antibacterial soap) and non-professional brands of hair care products, especially shampoo.

Understanding buffered glycolic acid can be useful in skin treatments ranging from acne and oil control to rejuvenation. Very low pH glycolic acids are "free". They have an immediate impact upon the skin and immediately become neutralize. Their highly acidic nature can also be extremely irritating. Buffered glycolic acid such as found in DERMAdoctor or MD Formulations remain just as effective without all the routine irritation that accompanies other forms of this AHA. It is also capable of longer action, taking a more methodical approach through a day's use.

As skin ages, particularly for women, sebum production declines. This dramatically affects the protective ability of the acid mantle, leading to skin dryness and exaggerating the appearance of fine wrinkle lines. Selecting skin treatments with a more hydrating base becomes essential.

Many skin rejuvenation treatments from topical Vitamin A treatments (like Retin A/Renova or Avage) to Vitamin C based treatments like Cellex-C to glycolic acid brands such as MD Formulations lie on the acidic end of the scale. Begin slowly, avoiding the urge to incorporate too many at one time. This helps avoid irritation due to a lower pH (rather than acid mantle disruption) and accurately help select what works for you.

Don't get fooled into thinking that you should be jumping for a pH of 2 or 3 in a misguided attempt to reestablish the acid mantle. You'll do more harm than good. There's a huge logarithmic gap between 2.0 and 3.0. Begin with minor adjustments like 3.0 to 3.4 instead.

Just Because You Asked Guide To pH Of Commonly Used Skin Care Products

• Retin A Creams: 0.1%-0.05%-0.025% 2.7-4.7 (presumably the more concentrated, the lower the pH).
• Azelex: 3.3
• Tazorac: 6.0-6.9
• Avage: 6.0-6.9
• "Free" Glycolic Acids 3.0
• DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Cleansers 3.8
• DERMAdoctor Born To Be Mild 5.6
• MD Formulations Range: 3.8-4.4
• DHS With Zinc 6.5-7.5
• DHS With Tar 5.0-6.5
• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser 5.5-7.0
• Cetaphil Moisturizing Cream 4.5-5.5
• Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion 5.0-6.0
• Cellex-C Sensitive Skin 3.1-3.5
• Cellex-C Original 2.0-2.5
• Cellex-C Advanced-C 3.7-3.9

Citric and Lactic acid where are naturally derived AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and are used in skin rejuvenation and exfoliation are often incorporated into products to help adjust the pH and make them "pH balanced."

Thank you for taking the time to read my newsletter. I hope you have found it informative.

Audrey Kunin, M.D.

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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