As we pull out the latest cruise-wear find from those overflowing shopping bags, how many of us have anxiously formed a frightening mental picture of our pale complexion set against the backdrop of that oh-so-exotic destination? It's practically the ultimate tropical fashion faux pas. That perfect shade of bronze (skin tone, that is) is truly your best accessory to pack for a day in paradise.

It makes one want to run right out and find the nearest tanning bed. If you did, you certainly wouldn't be alone. An estimated one million Americans a day crowd tanning salons nationwide unaware that a mere twenty minutes spent in their favorite booth is equivalent to spending an entire day at the beach. Multiply that by a once-a-week habit and you can literally see those wrinkles springing up decades before their time, not to mention escalating your risk of developing skin cancer.

What of your medical myth that you need to get a "base" tan before heading to the tropics? What's cruise season without the ritual of hitting the tanning parlor? Well, the truth is, you're likely doing more damage in the tanning bed since you probably apply sunscreen at the beach. And UV exposure in a tanning bed can make the skin even more vulnerable to outdoor sunburns following use of a tanning bed. So, there really is no such thing as protecting your skin by tanning before you tan.

But if visions of Vogue are dancing in your head this winter season, don't despair. Everyone in the know is in on the cosmetics industry secret of how those models really achieve their tan; they go for the glow with a self-tanner.

Get A Faux Glow The Old Fashioned WayOut Of A Bottle!

Self-tanners are the only way of achieving that bronzed look safely. No longer the foul smelling, orange-staining concoctions of our youth, self-tanners have matured along with the rest of us. Now you can feel like you're experiencing the hedonism of the tropics simply by opening a bottle.

Chemistry 101

The active ingredient common to all self-tanners is dihydroxyacetone (DHA). Immediately following application, a chemical reaction occurs between the self-tanner and the most superficial of the epidermal cells. DHA binds to the uppermost dead layers of skin cells. A color change takes place as the cells become stained brown and voile, instant (or not so instant for some formulations) tan.

The FDA considers DHA safe as a self-tanning ingredient. Dihydroxyacetone is not absorbed through the skin. Not safe, however, are tanning pills. These contain canthaxanthin, an ingredient implicated in causing hives and drug-induced liver damage (hepatitis). Tanning pills are not approved for sale in the United States.

Reality Check

A little bit of sunshine in a bottle is a wonderful thing, but what can you really expect of them? Self-tanners are literally a stain. They last only as long as your epidermal skin cells hang around - on average, three to four days. As they naturally exfoliate, the tan fades. Any skin care product that speeds up exfoliation, e.g. AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), BHA (beta hydroxy acid) or retinoid (Retin A, Renova, etc.) or mechanical exfoliation (loofahs, exfoliating scrubs or microdermabrasion creams) will cut into your tan time.

Rather than dump your favorite rejuvenator or acne medication in favor of a faux glow, it's best to approach self-tanner use as ongoing maintenance. Plan to reapply it every few days regardless of whatever else you may include in your beauty routine.

Shop 'Til You Drop

Realizing that self-tanners are the ultimate cruise wear accessory, I paid a little visit to Nordstrom and Hall's, eager to get the skinny on the latest and greatest self-tanners available in Kansas City. I still remember the days of the CopperTone tan when everyone was an odd shade of burnt orange. This fond memory still makes it a bit difficult for me to build up the nerve and test out a new self-tanner. And having found my favorite self-tanner, California North Titanium Self Tanner - 8 oz bottle, years ago while shopping at the now sadly defunct Jacobson's, it's been ages since I've experimented with a new brand. And that's saying a lot, because you have to go online to find it. I find that self-tanners are like a favorite perfume. If you like it, why change? But, I decided it was time to put the newest products to a test.

The Method. Most cosmetics lines provided at least two or three samples of different self-tanners. I didn't try out the myriad of exfoliators or after sun products. Nordstrom provides little white sample cases, so it was easy for them to share a small amount of the testers with me. At home, I applied 15 products to my stomach to see what differences were present in the actual product as well as the results. My sacrifice in creating a spotted stomach will hopefully help you to better judge this confusing array of items.

Decisions, Decisions

The Choices. Self-tanners come in every imaginable form: cream, gel, lotion, spray, stick and even mousse! How to choose? Some of this is obvious; select the vehicle you prefer based upon whim, as well as skin type. Oily skin? Try a gel, spray or mousse. Terribly dry skin - opt for extra moisture from a cream formulation.

Dark, medium or light? Self-tanners frequently give you the option to decide exactly what shade of bronze is going to be perfect for you. What's it going to be? Barely there color or just returned from the South Pacific?

Patience is a virtue? Are you all about instant gratification or do you simply want to wait out the process? If you're a self-tanner virgin, it's best not to go with a colorless product at first. Try the "instant" bronzers those containing added color so you can see right where you've applied it. It helps reduce those wide swathes of skin you missed and minimizes streaking.

Looking for a good SPF? It's unlikely you're going to find it in a self-tanner. The color from a self-tanner does not protect you from the sun, and neither will most self-tanners containing sunscreen. The main reason is that most self-tanners are applied at night in order to boast a beautiful bronze tone the next day. There is simply no sunscreen left by morning. If you do apply that self-tanner during the day, don't be fooled by a low SPF. If it's not a 15 minimum, it's not going to be adequate. Apply a separate sunscreen before you go on your way.

Leg, Face or Body? Okay, so now you've made it this far in your selection. The products are all lined up so beautifully upon the shelf, and you just know deep down that not only do you need the self-tanner for your body, those products made for your legs and face are calling out to come home with you. "And why not?" you reason, "My face deserves to be pampered." I urge you to take another look at the packaging (and price).

Notice that the facial self-tanners are in much smaller bottles and often are priced well above the body products. It's the classic cosmetics cross-sell. Unless you've selected a spray or mousse for your body, formulations more difficult to apply to the face without getting them into your eyes, there's often no reason to purchase two or three products. Purchase the one you like best and use it wherever you fancy. Your legs, back and face aren't going to mind!

Hype. Is it necessary to pay more for a self-tanner touting the latest, greatest vitamins and antioxidants? I wouldn't overpay for the hype. There is only so much that a self-tanner is going to do for your skin. After all, it's a one-time treatment that's only applied every several days.

Scent. Here's what else should factor into your decision-making. Do you have issues with fragrance? Better purchase one that's fragrance free no perfume added.

What about the smell of the product? To be blunt, DHA reeks. That's why most self-tanners do add fragrance, to make them tolerable. Sometimes it's not the DHA but the alcohol base that's offensive, gels being the worst offenders. But if you have problematic oily skin, short of applying an oil-absorbing product, it may be worth putting up with.

Techniques to Tan By

First, never apply a self tanner with your hands. Either wear disposable latex/non-latex gloves you can purchase at a drug store or use something like a Body Buddy Non-Absorbent Lotion Applicator to apply the product.

Second, you need to exfoliate prior to using a self-tanner; this makes for a more even application, reduces streaking and odd looking dark elbows, knees and ankles (a true give-away that you've been self-tanning). Use your favorite skin scrub in the shower, towel dry and then apply your self-tanner. California North Gelskin Scrub is a walnut based scrub with astringents. DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Body Scrub with Chemical + Physical Medi-Exfoliation provides a double-dose of exfoliation with chemical exfoliators glycolic & lactic acid along with smooth, non-abrasive synthetic beads that lift away dead skin cells without irritation.

Finally, if you cannot determine where you have placed the product, and continually end up with noticeable streaking, you may need to use one that has some color to it in the first place, like Rodial Brazilian Tan - LIGHT or Rodial Brazilian Tan - DARK so that you know which areas you have applied your product. Self-tanners look best if you apply them a few days in a row and then do some maintenance every few days. This allows the skin to take on a uniform appearance. If you find you are experiencing noticeable streaking and are unhappy with your first attempt at using a self tanner, all you need to do is wait a few days and the color will be gone. Then you can try it all over again.

The Results Are In

The results were astonishing to me. They all ultimately turned my skin the SAME COLOR, whether they were supposed to give a medium or a dark tone! The intensity of color is supposed to depend upon the amount of DHA, usually from 3.5 to about 5 percent, used in the formulation. At least that's the concept. I suspect that the number of applications and frequency of use ultimately determine the outcome. Perhaps if I'd repeated these spot tests every few days for a week or two, the result may have been different.

Whether the products were tinted or initially went on clear, not all of them developed full color at the same time. The average time to development was 3 hours. I noticed very little at 1 hour which most of the companies claimed was the anticipated time frame. It has now been 3 days of showering, and all of the tanned spots remain.

I have to admit, I preferred the tinted products; mainly because they made it easier to apply. The gels were my least favorites because of the incredibly heavy alcohol smell. Clinique products were truly free of any scent while the Clarins lotions had a scent reminiscent of maple syrup. I wasn't fond of the Lauder and Lancome products scent-wise, although I truly preferred the initial color of the Lancome tinted products over all the others.

Erythrulose is a natural sugar and an unique DHA enhancer. The combination of DHA and erythrulose helps ensure a more even, streakless, longer lasting tan without increasing dryness. Hampton Sun Sunless Tanning Gel contains erythrulose. Finally, the Sevin Nyne Self-Tanning Lotion is greaseless, lightweight lotion perfect for those with combination skin.

All in all it was pretty much a toss-up. And how did all of these self-tanners fair against my tried and true favorite? California North Titanium Self Tanner - 8 oz bottle goes on without color, making application a bit of a personal challenge. However, the fragrance is reminiscent of a pina colada on a far away beach. Even my husband has commented on how great I smell after I apply it. So for now, I'll stick with my original and wish for a tinted option that will someday rival it.

Thank you for taking the time to read my newsletter. I hope you have found it informative.

Audrey Kunin, M.D.

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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